I purchased the bike used last week,it only has 570 miles on it. Was told when I bought it the sprag cage was upgraded to a metal one.
When I test drove it, I had no problem with the 4 wheel drive working. The trailer I had to use to bring it home was narrow and I had to use 4wd to get over the wheel well of the trailer. When I got home and went to back the bike off the trailer it made a loud pop, but still drove over the wheel well no problem. I figured it was OK.
Took it to the sand dunes over the weekend and noticed I had no 4wd.
What I’ve done since then…..
I’ve jacked up the machine and put it on jack stands, engaged the 4wd and put it in gear…… Front diver shat spins with rpm of motor, and is tight nothing lose…..
Ohm tested the actuator on the diff and getting 22.4 ohms of resistance (22-24 is what the dealer told me)…..
I’m getting 12 volts of power from the red wire on the harness at the vehicle, and 3.4 volts at the brown and white (this doesn’t change weather the switch is on or off, I’m thinking this is where my problem is)
Removed front diff to see if perhaps I’d broken the armature plate, plate is good, not bent, no teeth missing…..
Found out the cage had not been upgraded to a better one……..but it was in one piece.
So as of now, diff has not been put back in yet, I want some ideas before I put it back together.
Diff now has upgraded sprag cage, OEM armature plate (new one I bought has a slight bend in it)
Is there a way to test the arming system on the diff while it’s off the vehicle, or is the ohm test all I need to do?
Would a bad switch be my culprit?
Has anyone else had this problem? Please any help would be appreciated.